I remember watching an observational documentary chronicling a photographer's venture to capture the spirit of Detroit, a prominent city in the American Midwest. Over several months in the Motor City, photographing its streets, structures, and public spaces and engaging with its residents, he and his team concluded that the defining image of the project was to be steam billowing from cracks and vents in the pavement. Upon sharing this image with the Detroiters he encountered, most of whom had never paid much attention to the phenomenon caused by the city's ageing steam heating system, the consensus was clear: this was unmistakably Detroit.

I spend approximately 80% of my annual travel time outside the UK in Japan, dedicating at least half of this to the Greater Tokyo area. Exploration of Tokyo and Japan has become almost instinctual. I have much left to accomplish, but I am confident in navigating what comes next. It is a sense of holding the keys to the city—or at least some of them—a feeling hard-earned from years invested in this single destination: my 10,000 hours in Tokyo learning the language, culture, and urban geography. As a result, in almost any setting, I can see things clearly and identify the metaphorical steam vents without months of groundwork.

During my remaining time abroad, I am much like any traveller, entering new destinations as a novice, unacquainted with local customs and seeking guidance. Finding myself in an unfamiliar city sharply reminds me of the challenges of starting anew. This sentiment was vivid this week during my inaugural visit to Athens—アテネ Atene in Japanese—the Greek capital renowned as one of the oldest cities in the world, with a history extending beyond 7,000 years by some estimates. Often referred to as the "cradle of Western culture," Athens has made foundational contributions to democracy, philosophy, art, and literature, making it an essential destination for any urban enthusiast.

It is rare for a long-scheduled trip to arrive with all the preparations I promised myself completed. Indeed, I disembarked the plane at Athens International Airport without prior reading, equipped only with the most basic Google Maps itinerary. Following a blistering taxi ride along the Attiki Odos motorway, built to enhance the transportation infrastructure for the 2004 Olympic Games, I sat on the marble balcony of my Airbnb, watching the nightlife of the Psyri neighbourhood below, searching online for area guides and sifting through restaurant recommendations to separate the overhyped from the local favourites.

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Atene Intermission