It is unmistakably plum rain season¹ in Tokyo. My flight touched down at 6:45 AM to drizzle, grey skies, and the early stirrings of humidity. These are not ideal walking conditions, and the light does little to flatter the city in photographs. Still, I appreciate this time of year—when the air hangs heavy with transition, and spring gives way to summer’s approach.

From a practical standpoint, this is also low season for flights, accommodation, and tourist footfall. With many deterred from visiting Japan at this time of year, immigration at Haneda is relatively calm.

From the airport, I travel to the walk’s starting point, Takao Station, the last stop westward on the JR Chūō Rapid Line. It lies close to, but should not be mistaken for, Takaosan-Guchi Station on the Keio Line, which serves as the gateway to Mount Takao.